Ask the Makeup Doctor

Really?

Well, hi!

Even I didn't think that some crisis could last well over two years. 

Guess what?  I was wrong.

Anyway, since this site has long been neglected, I am in the process of a site revamp.

Look for it in a couple of months!

 

 

Eyebrows - Window Dressing to the Soul

We've all heard that eyes are windows to the soul.  So, I've decided that eyebrows are the window dressing to the eyes that are windows to the soul.  And as such -- attention must be paid.

I was very lucky in my younger years -- eyebrow wise, though I certainly didn't think so at the time!  They were dark, thick, and course and I had to pluck those suckers every damned day -- sometimes twice a day.  It seemed the minute I looked away more eyebrow hair appeared to form a unibrow to join my hazel eyes together.

Eyebrow Pencils, Mascara and Powder, Oh My!    

I never had to use an eyebrow pencil, much less any sort of special brown eyebrow powder to fill in sparse eyebrows. Nope -- not my problem.  When I was little, and my mom would get ready to go out, she'd always have her trusty Maybelline brow pencil in hand and filled in her blonde eyebrows prior to leaving.  She may not have worn any other makeup -- but those eyebrows were ALWAYS filled in.

The other day, I was grudgingly getting ready to go out, and I pulled out my makeup.  I gave myself a cursory glance as I half-heartedly decided what eyeliner I should wear, when I suddenly noticed my eyebrows -- as if for the first time.  Can it be?  Were they looking dull?  Were they looking not only dull, but a bit sparser (no-way!) and even a little gray?

I couldn't believe this was happening to me!  (Doesn't this sound really dramatic, like it should be about the crash of 1929 or something?)  I grabbed something I don't think I've ever used in my lifetime.  An eyebrow pencil. And, I also grabbed something I've used since 1997, but had seriously slacked off in the past few years -- eyebrow mascara.

Oh, It IS Me!!!!!!!!

After adding these two useful (and always used by my clients because I insist) items, I suddenly looked like me again.  Dark brown full and lush eyebrows. 

Ladies -- we are a changin', but we can certainly help ourselves along.  Doing my eyebrows really made a difference.  After all my makeup was on, I looked like me (to me) again and that is the best feeling of all.  If all it takes is a little makeup to make yourself feel like you again, I'm all for it!  And there is nothing easier than adding a little color to make all the difference. 

Don't leave out those "little" things because they are too small to make a difference.

Trust me -- they aren't little, and I LOVED the difference -- because it made me feel like I really hadn't changed that much (looks wise) and I felt the same way I used to feel.

So, dust off those window dressings -- you'll love feeling like you again -- even if only in your eyebrows!  I'll take feeling like me again wherever I can find it!  (And yes -- I did pluck those gray/white ones and got rid of them.)

I used YSL's Eyebrow Pencil in #2.  Great color, and I like the spoolie at the opposite end for grooming.  YSL is available at most high end department stores.  I bought mine at Nordstrom.

I used Paula's Choice Brow/Hair Tint in Sable.  She has other color options as well.  Paula's Choice is available online at http://www.paulaschoice.com.  

 

 

MAC Store - Hillsdale Mall

Well, FINALLY! 

Yep - a blog post about MAC. My first blog post about it - but I'm sure it will hardly be my last.

Actually, I'm not writing about the MAC line of products, but I am writing about their Customer Service.  Specifically, the Customer Service at the standalone MAC store at the Hillsdale Mall (San Mateo, CA).

Since MAC's inception back in the 80's it quicly became a fan sensation and a media darling - so to speak.  The SA's all wore black, and had that slightly (to be honest NOT slightly) but a very haughty attitude as if we mere mortals in the non makeup world - we mere buyers were so below them it was if they weren't certain if they could speak to us without sneering.

After one to many off-putting SA's, I decided not to use the line - as delightful as the colors and product might or might not have been.

Fast forward to now.

In the years that I've been a makeup artist, it is almost impossible to avoid the MAC line - for a variety of reasons, outstanding color choices and a wide variety of everything you could possibly want.  MAC is a very visible and popular line with the general public and professional alike.

Enter the standalone MAC store at Hillsdale.  I walked in with a great deal of trepidation.  To my surprise, every single one of the SA's were friendly, helpful and most of all, knowledgable.  They looked right AT me - no looking around for someone younger or hipper.  They talked to me, advised me and were friendly and kind.

Honestly, I was taken aback.  Could it be possible that MAC just got a very bad rap - and I felt the negativity and kept away?

Which brings me to the wonderful Natalia.  Natalia is not only knowledgable - she is friendly and kind - and as I said, she knows her stuff.  She won't push you to purchase anything you do not need, or wouldn't enhance you.  She is so accomplished that even I - ever on the watch for customer service and product knowledge - knew at once she wasn't just trying to sell me, she was listening and asking the right questions.

While I was browsing, I saw her at work on a customer and saw first hand her outstanding application of the products.  Her sharp eye was very apparant, manner friendly, and her ability was impeccable.

I am very careful with my clients.  If I cannot be with them when they are shopping, I want to guide them to not only the very best makeup for them, but I want them to be able to walk up to a beauty counter secure in the knowledge that the SA will not only assist them, but won't push them to buy something uunnecessarily, and won't talk down to them - especially when you can be dealing with the 40 + woman.  (We have enough on our plates without a young and beautiful SA looking down on us, or worse, TALKING down TO us.)

It is so comforting to know that I needn't be worried when my clients shop without me.  Every client I've sent to the Hillsdale MAC store has called me with wonderful compliments about the service they received.  No exceptions.  All 100% delighted.  (That ain't easy to do these days!)

So maybe MAC Customer Service got a bad rap years ago, or maybe I had run into some not very good SA's in the past. But now, with the professionals like Natalia and  her fellow associates at the Hillsdale Standalone MAC store-that rap is undeserved. 

Here's to you, Natalia, and to your fellow associates at MAC Store at the Hillsdale Mall - San Mateo, CA. *raises virtual champagne glass*

I'm now a believer.

You'll believe too. 

Now clink those virtual glasses!

 

 

 

 

 

A Makeup Doctor Mystery....

Hi!

Where have you been, I hear you cry?

Yes, once again, a long time since I've last been able to write.

By way of an explanation (and more than a year and 3 months between posts deserves SOME sort of explanation) I have migraines.  Not just migraines, but MIGRAINES.  Chronic and ugly.

Since I devoted last year (and some of the year before to bitterness) I'm once again trying to join the living, and will continue my blog, and hopefully get on some kind of schedule.

Just asked some of my past brides and other theatrical and medical clients  to send me their pictures, which I soon hope to post and will be updating my page as pain permits.

I have been quietly consulting with some theatre groups and some medical groups, and have continued to purchase and review makeup-just been unable to write about it - which, when you think about it, doesn't serve the blogging world, now does it?

Nice to have you back.  Stay awhile.

 

Estee Lauder - Old School

Hi!  It's me again.

I frequent a great many beauty/blog sites as is to be expected, considering what I do.

Makeup Packaging

Inevitably, I read that Estee Lauder is the "old lady"brand, and most younger girls or women aren't excited enough about their packaging to use her product. What a shame to judge the entire product by the cover.  Some of the cutest most impressive packaging have the worst possible products.

So interesting!  When I was a young woman, 20 or 21, the only brands you could buy in the department stores were Estee Lauder, Lancome, Chanel, Princess Marcella Borghese, Clinique and the incredibly modern, Ultima II.  We didn't have NARS, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier, Benefit, Urban Decay and all of the other brands that are now considered "regular brands". 

A Long Time Ago....

I remember going to the Estee Lauder counter at The Emporium in San Francisco.  A saleslady (now they are beauty advisors, makeup artists, sales associates - but not one saleslady among them!) introduced me to Estee Lauder's eye cream at the ripe old age of 20.  She was a good sales person, and she also introducd me to Lauder's pressed powder, and a love affair was born.

To this day, I STILL use Estee Lauder's products.  Not exclusively because there are SO many different lines, but this line still has some of the best quality products I've ever used.  My HG pressed powder is Lucidity Transparency.  Perfection for a very fair woman as myself.  In the 30 years or so since I first started wearing her powder, I've strayed, tried the newest big thing - and have ALWAYS gone back to that perfect powder.  (They'll be back. They ALWAYS come back.  What movie or book was that from?)

                                                      What's Inside?

Estee Lauder's line has reinvented itself many, many times since my first foray into her makeup line when I was 20 years old.  She has a great line - love the lipsticks, the blushes, and still prefer "More than Mascara" to any other mascara at this point.

So Bright, So Shiny!

So - yes, there might brighter and shinier and really clever advertisements and packaging on the newer brands. Some lines are fascinating with their glimmer and shimmer and special effects packaging - like a 3-D movie.  But - where's the substance?

Don't judge a book by its cover  - think of all the beauty opportunities you are missing!

If you haven't tried anything of Lauder's you are SO missing out! 

If she's been around this long - she obviously doing something right - and it ain't all smoke and mirrors!

 

Laura Mercier -My Continuing Adoration.....

LAURA MERCIER

I know I've written about Laura Mercier's makeup before.  But it is so worth writing about again.

Since I blog about makeup, there are very few lines I've not tried, played with, had crushes on, felt I was in love with - only to have to break up with them soon after we met.  *cue violins*

Not so with Laura Mercier's makeup.  I've strayed - it's my job.  But, I always come back.  I come back to her wonderful Kohl Liners (Black Violet - I cannot deny you!) and I truly cannot live without my favorite eyeshadow of all time, "Morning Dew" (hint to Laura - please, please NEVER let me see this on the Au Revoir list!)

Her newest collection is coming out, and I've already made my list. The Canyon Collection - check it out!  Look at the blush or Cheek Melange as it is called?  Oh my - I MUST have this!

In addition to the lovely color stories, Laura is my staple - I always come back to her eyeshadows - they simply just work.  I use them on myself, I use them on my clients - I might start using them on strangers on the street if I didn't think that someone would call people that would speak to me gently!

Invisible Loose Setting Powder

My newest crush is on her new light and airy powder with the fan brush. (The real name is Invisible Loose Setting Powder, but I like my description!) Instant attraction - love at first sight.  I tried it on myself (of course - that's what any makeup artist does first) and then I tried it on my clients - only to see their tail lights zooming down the street to go and get some for themselves. (Note to clients - could you at least say "bye!" before you go?  Manners, ladies, manners!)

If you haven't checked out her collection recently -  do yourself a favor, and drop by the counter and let a Laura Mercier artist work his or her magic on you. 

We all need a little magic - and what better place than the Laura Mercier makeup counter?

 

 

 

Eve Pearl

Well - hi again!

It's been another long while in-between postings, but my chronic migraines don't really seem inclined to be leaving any time soon, so while I send a pox to my migraines, I'm tapping at the keyboard once again.

Off-Broadway Brands

Many of us in the field of makeup know the regular brand names you see in department stores, as well as the pro-lines that are off the beaten path.  Myself - I LOVE makeup lines that are off the beaten path - I love discovering new products and techniques.  New to me perhaps - but many of these (what I call) off broadway brands have been around longer than I have, which always makes me happy!

Eve Pearl - The Book

Eve Pearl.  Know that name?  Heard that name?  I happened upon Eve Pearls book "Plastic Surgery Without the Surgery" a few years back.  I believe I had heard about her from "The View".  Who can resist such a title?  Plastic Surgery Without the Surgery?  Nice.  I'm all for no surgery.

This book truly is wonderful.  I purchased it back in 2004 when it was released, and constantly referring to it as a skill refresher and guide.

Eve Pearl - The Concealer

A key product that Eve Pearl is known for is her salmon concealer.  I FINALLY got my hands on the concealer a couple of months ago and it is outstanding.  So outstanding, I was enthusiastically showing a client, and ended up giving her mine. (A client and a friend - she had a new job and wanted to look her best!)

This concealer is amazing, truly amazing.  I purchased mine in "Light" and it is creamy and delightful, and does the job a concealer is SUPPOSED to do. My old undereyes (which will celebrate their 50'th birthday very soon) look spectacular.

Eve Pearl - the Makeup Line

I'm so sold on this line, that I just recently (last week) made a purchase of some staples to put into my kit.  I can't wait to try out everything in this line, because if the concealer is any indication, I've entered into HG (holy grail) territory when it comes to product.

So - bottom line - check out this book, and check out her concealer.  Read it - study it - refer to it.  She covers everything in a very easy to understand and well illustrated way.  I know you'll want to try this concealer once you've read the book.  I've already given one away, so check out her site: http://www.evepearl.com

Happy reading, and even happier concealing!

 

 

 

Illamasqua

I was told about this line by a new friend I met at the MAC store, but had never heard about it before. Nope - not in ANY of the multiple makeup/fashion/celeb culture magazines or sites that I had read or visited.  That alone fascinated me.  I mean, since I peruse hundreds of makeup sites as one of the many things I do for a living, (and for a hobby) you'd think I would have at least HEARD about it.

I was simply buying makeup (gee - I hope you were sitting down - buying makeup is something I almost NEVER do!) and another makeup junkie was in the store and began telling me about the line.

Of course, I was immediately fascinated.  Suddenly, I'm seeing articles about  Illamasqua, seeing Sephora advertisements about it and soon it was available at Sephora.  But only in the Sephora on Powell Street in San Francisco. 

Being in a Sephora (as you well know) is a dangerous thing.  Especially dangerous when there is a long awaited makeup line just sitting there - staring at me - no DARING me to try it.  I don't generally go to the Powell Streets store and since Illamasqua isn't sold anywhere on the Peninsula, being the good makeup junkie that I am, I immediately purchased the liquid foundation, an eyeshadow, two blushes and a lipstick. 

Many times, I will savor the makeup once I get it home. Look at the box, study ingredients, take note of the packaging and generally enjoy the experience, even as I take notes for my clients.

This time, I went for it.  Opened every box that I purchased anxious to see, smell and study the texture.

Just Say Yes to Illamasqua

Impressed - very impressed.  So much so that I immediately placed an online order for the pressed powder foundation in two different colors.  (They were out of the cream to powder in my color.)

The liquid foundation is like nothing I've tried before - and believe me, there are very few foundations that I've not tried!  (Again - hope you are sitting down!)  The color was perfect - the texture was very thick and creamy - meaning a little dab will do you!  With this type of texture, you want to make sure your skin is well moisturized, not only with a moisturizer, but also with a primer.  Or, you can do what I do..add a little moisturizer to the foundation, mix in your hand and you are ready to go. 

I'm still a makeup sponge user - though I also have and use foundation brushes on clients.  I had no problem with the foundation coverage - it did what I want foundation to do - made me look like me, only better.  The color was a good match, and it felt nice on my face.  Even though the foundation is very rich, it didn't feel heavy.

I can also see this being used in theatrical makeup - and I've already begun to calculate how much purchasing all the foundations might cost!

So much to review in such a short little blogging amount of time. 

To Be Continued.....

Foundation Preferences

Most of us are not only on an endless quest for the perfect foundation. If you are going to spend money on makeup (and of course you are) I still suggest that you put your hard earned cash towards a great foundation that suits you. 

DRUGSTORE FOUNDATIONS

Drugstore foundations are the hardest to work with, because they don't have testers.  The only foundation I have ever found at the drugstore that suits me both color wise and texture wise is Sally Hansen Natural Beauty inspired by Carmindy.  I threw caution to the wind, and purchased her Your Skin Makeup in my color, Porcelain 1000-01.

Carmindy's foundation really surprised me.  Not only does the color match perfectly, but I loved the texture, and find myself wearing it far more than I ever thought I would.  Check out her line - many of the drugstores have a buy one free deal at least once a month if not more.  If you find a color that you think you might work, this is definitely one to check out and still have money left over!

TINTED MOISTURIZERS

If you are searching for something with the lightest feel to it, take a look at Tinted Moisturizers.  They have very light coverage, generally have SPF protection, and come in varied shades in just about every department store line.  My favorites are the Tinted Moisturizers from Laura Mercier and from Bobbi Brown.  Both lines carry oil free versions of their Tinted Moisturizer.  Remember, you can always get samples before you buy, and I highly recommend this.

DEPARTMENT STORE FOUNDATIONS

My absolute holy grail of foundation is Giorgio Armani's Sculpting Foundation.  This has beautiful coverage, lovely shades and just leaves my skin looking like my skin only better - which is what foundation is supposed to do.  Many women 40+ find this to be an excellent foundation, along with their Luminous Silk Foundation.  Either one - you can't go wrong.

Laura Mercier and Bobbi Brown also make excellent foundations, with a varied shade selection.  They both make oil free foundations, along with moisturizing foundations.  I've tried all of them, and they all were above average in coverage and texture.

SEPHORA

Lately, I've also discovered Makeup Forever from Sephora.  I LOVE their Mat Velvet+.  This is the best oil free foundation I've ever tried.  Even though I've got dry skin, nothing beats this foundation for texture and shade choices.  I just use it over primer, or right after I've applied my sunscreen or moisturizer.  Ladies looking for another oil free choice - definitely put this on your sample list. 

I also like Makeup Forever's Professional HD High Definition Foundation.  Again, excellent color choices, and I love the texture.

FOUNDATION RECAP

• Drugstore - Carmindy

• Department Store - Laura Mercier or Bobbi Brown

• High End Department Store - Giorgio Armani

• Sephora - Makeup Forever

You can't go wrong with any of the above.  Be sure and get samples, and test on your face outside in the natural light. 

(Note: I have not addressed the loose mineral foundations. Or Cream.  Or Cream to Powder.  Or Pressed Mineral, or Powder Foundation. It will happen. I promise.)

Gotta love makeup.  Maybe the wrong shade sometimes, but it always fits, and you DON'T have to be a size 0 to wear it! I'd love to hear what has worked for you...send me a comment or an email.

Drugstore vs. Department Store Foundation

The Makeup Doctor gets asked many, many questions in a day. 

One of the main questions (other than asking "does this look good on me?" or "what colors should I wear") is the age old question -  which is better, department store cosmetics or drugstore cosmetics?

This is a debate that will certainly not be solved in today's column!  Indeed, I expect it will rage on long  after I'm gone, or whenever my laundry is truly finished - so let's just say not in my lifetime!

My answer to this question is that they both have their strengths and their weaknesses.   But if you are going to shell out a great deal of money - or only have a limited amount of money to spend on makeup, I say spend on department store foundation.

There are many reasons for my answer.  The main one being that you cannot test drugstore foundations.  Color matching is almost impossible  - you have to see it on your own skin (preferably outside in real light) to see if it is a true match.  Even if you "think" you found a true match, you have to know how the coverage is on your skin - not enough coverage, too thick, too thin...you get the picture.

In a department store - or a store like Sephora, you have the luxury of testers.  You can have a sales associate help you, or you can test foundations yourself to see not only how it looks on your face, but how it feels as well.

Your face is your canvas and you want a foundation that matches perfectly, and looks natural like you aren't wearing any makeup at all.  You don't want foundation to be cakey,  you don't it to be streaky and uneven, and by all means, you don't want it to be a vastly different color than your neck!  We've all seen the unfortunate woman with the line of demarcation between her actual face color and neck color.

Go to the department store and get yourself matched. Remember to go outside and look at yourself in the real light.  Nothing worse than going home, putting it on, looking in the mirror and saying "oh no!", and starting all over again.

Makeup is fun - have fun finding the type of foundation that makes you not only look good, but feel good too.